change

nothing lasts forever;
but if you are lucky, it will last a lifetime

headbugs

when the gnawing and clawing become overwhelming,
the writing begins

social anorexia

Writing this is difficult for me. The idea of how to explain my sketchy social behavior leaves my mouth dry and my head pounding. I will begin by saying that I am always filled with envy when meeting people who are actually good at consummating friendships and are comfortable with being overtly extroverted. It seems like most of the world has this skill dialed. I am pretty sure most people even enjoy themselves when they are with a large group of friends. And I can't help but wonder what is wrong with me.
Sometimes I feel like a social anorexic; denying myself the food of deep friendships, all the while slowly wasting away into a ghost or shadow of myself....someone easily looked through or seldom considered as an individual fit to be a good friend. And honestly, it is a symptom of my own choices. At some point, people get tired of inviting someone who never shows up or when they do show up, they are awkward, introspective and just plain weird. I have watched happy people become uncomfortably silent in my presence. And thus, the awkwardness between us grows and the intensity of my social discomfort only increases. I feel the need to run away, leave the scene or to find a chair in a dim corner and wait to go home.
And I will admit to bailing on more than one occasion when the pressure of just showing up to a party or event felt overwhelming and frightening. I have any number of default excuses that keep me from participating in large (or small) gatherings and I try and rotate through them; never giving the same excuse to the same person more than once in a row. And even as the excuses come tumbling out of my mouth, inside my head I am screaming to myself. Because more than anything, I want to be among you, I just don't know how to do it.

As it is with most people, personal baggage can be hard to identify and can take years of hard work to rectify. I have tried to pinpoint exactly when I developed such a friendship phobia (I don't have a people phobia; I love people) and it seems to have started in grade school and continued all the way through high school. Constant shunning by individuals I identified as 'good friends' and even some of my favorite family members, led me to build a wall around the softest parts of my heart. For the sake of self preservation I began to keep friends at arms length in anticipation of the eventual pain that comes with the dissolution of a friendship.
When I finally made my way to college my relationships became more genuine, stable and real. And although the wall was still there, I built a sturdy door with a solid lock and started handing out copies of the key to a couple of my favorite people. The door can still be barred from the inside, so even with a key, admittance is not guaranteed. I have heard the term 'social anxiety' and I suppose that applies to me. And although many people I know would describe me as extroverted (I interact openly with strangers, just not friends), the core of my being still houses a huddled and scared introvert.
But what I am really hoping to explain is that I understand that this is all on me; not on you, my friends. In fact, I love most of you more than you love me (certainly). I peek out of the curtains of my world into the great vista of yours and am satisfied with waving to you as you pass by. And honestly, I am content if you just wave back. If you are walking alone, I may even get over my fear enough to open the door and ask you if you want to come in. If you are traveling with a group, I will probably keep the door locked and I might even step away from the window and watch unnoticed through the gauze of the curtains. Some days, if I am feeling particularly safe, I might come outside and ask if it is okay to walk with you. And, mostly on those days, I am hoping  that you will smile, take my hand and lead the way. Because I don't know how to lead this dance anymore, although I am willing to learn the steps.

July Pests 2014

Warm weather brings out the best and worst in all of us, including pests. Insect pests can be a re-occurring problem in any garden.  With warm weather and plenty of water available due to regular irrigating, insects can reproduce rapidly and can move from being a minor nuisance to down-right destructive. There are many pests that are common to gardens in this region and the WSU Chelan County Diagnosis Clinic has seen all of them.   One of the most asked about pests according to Linda Sarratt, Master Diagnostician, are cutworms.

There are many species of cutworm but all have essentially the same life stages and tell-tale signs of destruction.  Cutworms are the larvae of a small, brown, nocturnal moth. The female moth may lay hundreds of eggs in the fall which can over-winter on the soil surface or on low growing vegetation and plant residue (in other words, the weeds you didn’t clean out of your garden in September and October).  When the larvae hatch in the spring (timing of hatch out is moisture dependent), they begin to nibble away at the surrounding vegetation and are particularly keen on asparagus, beans, cabbage and other crucifers, carrots, celery, corn, lettuce, peas, peppers, potatoes and tomatoes....really, the whole garden (sometimes even turfgrass, depending on the species of cutworm).  Signs of cutworm damage are classic. One day, you will see a beautiful row of seedlings newly emerged and full of vigor. The following day, you will notice several seedlings look like they have been ‘cut’ at the base. The upper portion of the seedling may be still partially attached to its base but leaning at an exaggerated angle or it may be lying on the ground next to the ‘stump’ which used to be its stem. The following day, more seedlings will be missing. This cycle will continue until all seedlings have been decimated.

So what can you do about this?  If you think cutworms are the culprits at play in your garden, the first step is to try and capture one for positive ID. Cutworms feed at night and then hide under the surface of the soil during the day. By running your finger around the damaged plant and stirring up the soil to a depth of about ½ inch, oftentimes you will find the larvae (1/2” to 1.5” in length is typical). Any larvae that you find should be destroyed.

Another technique is to put foil or cardboard collars around newly transplanted seedlings.  Creating collars by cutting the bottom off of a compostable paper cup works well. The cup can be slipped over the top of the seedling after the bottom is cut off and then the base of the cup can be nestled down into the soil to a depth of about 1.5”.  This acts as a physical barrier between the cutworm and the seedling.

Additionally, diatomaceous earth (a non-toxic naturally derived form of powdered silica) can be incorporated into the soil around newly planted seedlings and can be sprinkled onto the plant itself. The diatomaceous earth is a ‘death of a thousand cuts’ to small, soft-bodied pests like the cutworm.

Lastly, practice preventative maintenance by removing weeds and other plant residue from the garden throughout the season but mainly in the fall. This limits the places for females to lay eggs.

For more information on cutworms, the University of Minnesota has put out an information sheet at the following web address, http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/insects/find/cutworms-in-home-gardens/

If in doubt about the proper identification of an insect of particular concern to your garden, the WSU Master Gardener Diagnosis Clinic is open Mondays and Wednesdays from 1-4 PM at 400 Washington Street across from the court house in Wenatchee and is free of charge to home-owners.

As always, happy gardening!

Microgreens 2014

Oh fresh greens! I miss you already and winter has only just begun. I don’t deal well with the deprivation that this darkness delivers. Fortunately, there are some edibles that grow well enough indoors that I can indulge in chlorophyll over the next few months without the need for a heated greenhouse. Have you ever grown micro-greens? What about pea shoots? They are not that difficult to grow and they are incredibly satisfying to eat.

Micro-greens are the smallest of shoots, harvested in the stage between cotyledon and first true leaf.  Many types of plants are used as ‘micro-greens’ including broccoli, amaranth, radish or kale. While managing the garden at Sleeping Lady, I was given the opportunity to experiment at will to find the microgreens best suited to winter production in their greenhouse. A look through a Johnny’s Seeds catalog will give you an idea of the variety of plants that are used in micro-greens production. Some are used for their color, others for their sturdiness and keeping ability and others for flavor. The price range for micro-green seed is broad and often has little to do with the ease or difficulty in growing. Some of the most expensive seed is also the most finicky to grow with the highest chance of failure. Hands-down my favorite ones to grow were the radishes.  Often the seed was far less expensive than most other micro-greens, the size of the seed was larger and easier to handle and the growth rate was rapid and predictable.  The flavor and texture of the radish sprouts was also exceptional and the holding ability after being cut was much better than some of the more delicate sprouts (such as beets, purslane or amaranth).

Pea shoots are equally easy to grow. Again, many types of peas are sold for shoot production. The ones that have been most successful for me are the Dwarf Gray. They are also the least expensive pea seed when purchased in bulk. Before planting, pea seed should be soaked overnight in clean water. This will jump start the sprouting process.

The easiest way to grow micro-greens or pea shoots is to put a little container of soil (I prefer to use one of the shallow black nursery tray liners with the underlying support tray that is used for holding garden starts at the store) on your kitchen counter. Sprinkle seeds densely onto the soil surface (regular potting mix works well), press the seeds into the soil with the palm of your hand and then lightly sprinkle a little soil over the top. Water thoroughly so that the soil is damp all the way through (bottom watering works best for micro-greens and peas) and in a couple of days you will see the seedlings beginning to emerge. There is no need to fertilize. When the micro-green seedlings are approximately 1-2” in height and before the first true leaves are fully developed, clip the seedlings off and use as a garnish for sandwiches, soup or salads. For the pea shoots, wait until they are approximately 3-4” in height before clipping. You may be surprised how much flavor such a little plant can pack...they really are amazing.  After clipping, the plants will not re-grow. The soil can be dumped into the compost pile or worm bin (the worms really love to eat the leftovers).

If you have left-over broccoli, radish or kohlrabi seed from your summer garden, these can be used in the winter for micro-greens production. Avoid nightshades such as peppers, tomatoes or eggplant. These are not suitable for micro-greens production. When in doubt, Google it.

Happy Gardening!

Late Fall Planting 2014

Yes, the weather has cooled and the days are short. The rain makes me crave hot tomato soup with grilled cheese sandwiches and begs me to curl up with my book rather than don the rain suit for more gardening. The average gardener is calling it quits for a few months.  In typical fashion, most folks will be  finishing their harvest of root crops and kale and will be pulling out the near-dead eggplant and limp tomatoes to create a massive compost pile of old weeds and spent plants in one corner of the yard. Having a siesta from gardening does have its appeal but it is far from necessary; even at this time of the year. When you truly love to eat what you sow, there is always a way to make the season last longer.

If there has been proper planning, a tenacious gardener with hopes for a winter harvest or an early spring crop, are still working in their plots. Produce still abounds for those who have planned ahead.  This sweet spot of the year is when harvest continues but the work of weeding (and for the most part watering) no longer exists. It is the pot-o’-gold; Late Fall Bounty. This window of time can carry on all the way to Thanksgiving.  It is during this time that sowing for early spring crops takes place.

Early Spring crops are those who can tolerate lower temperatures but will still germinate in cool, damp soils. Greens are best suited to these conditions.  From now until Thanksgiving (or until the ground is frozen and can no longer be worked) seed for specialty greens can be sown.  The best case scenario is to begin sowing seed in October so that germination takes place before winter. Cotyledon stage or first true leaf stage tend to over-winter well and allow the plant a jump start in the spring for when the weather begins to warm.  For the greatest chance of success, Late Fall sown crops need to be kept from drying out. In the Upper Valley, rainfall is enough moisture to keep the soil damp enough for good germination. In drier parts of the county, additional watering may be needed to achieve good germination.  A covering such as a little hoop house or cold frame also increases the likelihood of a successful Early Spring crop as it holds in solar heat and keeps the soil from freezing too deeply. For fun, try a late fall planting of cilantro, miner’s lettuce, mache’ or spinach.  Spring greens may be closer than you think.... Happy Fall and keep on gardening! 

KPQ Home and Garden Show 2014

KPQ Home and Garden Show March 14-16^th, 2014                            

Spring is around the corner and it is time once again for the annual KPQ Home and Garden Show. Master Gardeners will be making it a fun event for the whole family with a variety of workshops and activities to keep folks entertained and educated.  Master Gardeners will be stationed in the Crunch Pak room, the same location as last year, making the activities and information easy to find for home show veterans.  Seminars and speakers will be held in the bleacher area of the Town Toyota Center leaving the activity room open at all times to visitors of the home show. 

The theme for this year in the Master Gardener area is Growing Communities. Topics will be geared toward growing knowledge, growing beauty, growing food and growing kids.  As always, there will be crafts and projects for children.  This year, youngsters will be encouraged to ‘plant a rainbow’. All activities and crafts are free of charge. Master Gardener plant diagnosticians will be on hand to answer questions about plant problems and a variety of information will be presented on Master Gardener programs and learning opportunities.

A new addition to the Master Gardener area this year will be the sale of seed potatoes. The Master Gardener Association will be selling a number of hard to find seed potato varieties for the home garden as part of their annual fundraising efforts. Fresh, home grown potatoes are a real treat and are worth the effort. Potatoes can be grown vertically in containers on a patio or porch, making them an accessible crop for gardeners with limited space. Vertical gardening of potatoes will be presented as part of the Master Gardener speaker series happening at the home show.

A diverse number of topics will be presented by Master Gardeners on both Friday and Saturday. In addition to ‘Vertical Gardening’ other topics will include ‘Integrating Vegetables and Flowers’, ‘Freshen Up Your Garden Design’,  ‘The Beautiful Pollinator’, ‘Salsa Gardening’, ‘What’s New-An Overview of New Tools and Plants’, and ‘Let’s Go To The Fair’. A complete schedule and description of each presentation will be available at the Master Gardener area of the Home Show.

If you would like more information about the Master Gardener activities happening at this year’s KPQ Home and Garden Show, please contact Deb Benbow at debjeanbenbow@gmail.com.

Come on out and join in on the fun!